Outrageously Good Grenache

I just returned from a whirlwind tour through the arid hills of the Central Coast. The weather was warm and comforting, especially when one considers the transposition NY's climate seems to have made w/ Seattle. I didn't exactly have a major objective in mind. The trip was more of a reprieve than anything. That said, I continue to be on the look-out for good Grenache, which has been as fleeting a California concept as any. I’m pleased to say that the more I taste, the more it seems that there’s light at the end of that tunnel. For the purposes of this post, I’ve decided to highlight just one, as it commands quite a room. I plan on connecting the dots of my trek later this afternoon as I synthesize some organization to my observations.

Alban Grenache, '06
While this grape certainly has struggled to find its footing in California, I must admit it does come in shapes and sizes that you just don't see anywhere else. Here’s a case and point. A dark, essentially black, brooding wine that is as opaque and authoritative an expression of Grenache that you'll find (John, are you cheating w/ a bit of that Syrah of yours?!). From a character standpoint, this is quite a change in pace from the '05, which was downright savage. The '06 is much more varietally recognizable, w/ the classic elements of melted licorice, crème de cassis, kirsch liqueur, forest floor and spice box coming to the forefront. Thick and jam-packed w/ glycerin, the waves of flavor compel w/ sheer intensity, viscosity and power, yet maintain a solid sense of focus from top to bottom. The finish lingers on & on, much like the purple colored legs on the stem after a vigorous swirl. I imagine fans of Clos St. Jean's top cuvees will go bonkers over this one, 97 points.

While Alban sure as heck aint new to most of you, the 2006 vintage represents what I believe to be his first year of great Grenache. His other bottlings were great wines, yet reminded me of the grape very little. If this is a window of things to come for the team at Alban, I can only hope that John & Lorraine share their learning’s w/ the other inspired growers of the Coast. This was really something special.

Banter Amongst Grapes

Grenache asked Cabernet, “why do all the other vines always pick on me so?” Cabernet responded abruptly, “quite simply, you aren’t a noble grape.” Grenache wondered what noble meant. Cabernet wasn’t exactly sure, yet always assumed it was noble because it came from Bordeaux, the best region in the world (and that sense of false bravado always made Cabernet forget about the fact that it was spawn from a one night stand between the floozy Sauvignon Blanc and its not so admirable father, Cabernet Franc). Grenache didn’t like being in oak very much, the place where all the noble kids tend to play, but felt defiant today and challenged “if you are so damn noble, then what do you need oak for?” Cabernet got a bit defensive. “Just because you can’t handle it doesn’t mean you have to knock it,” Cabernet said. Grenache replied, “Well all you taste of is oak these days. Since when were mocha, coffee, toast, graphite, vanilla and smoke your varietal character? Do you even know what you taste like without that oaky façade?” Now Cabernet was getting angry. “Listen you overly alcoholic runt, I last longer, have more muscle, better structure and cost a hell of a lot more than you do, so you best step off before I splinter you w/ my mighty oak tannins!” Grenache scoffed at Cabernet’s antagonism, growing in confidence as the verbal sparing continued. “Well I happen to be the world’s most influential wine critic’s favorite drink and I don’t need any make-up to look good. Last I checked wine drinkers no longer have the patience for you to come around while I am delicious right out of the gates.”

Cabernet, once austere and rigid, was aghast that it was challenged by something so low on the vinifera food chain….but had to admit that there was something kinky about the way Grenache argued. “Well you certainly are a cocky little one. Although I’m somewhat repulsed by your inadequacies, you are growing on me…like a fungus. Care to step out for a drink?” “Gladly,” said Grenache. “How ‘bout a Chateauneuf?”

A 1981 horizontal, where neither of the two outstanding wines are red Bordeaux

The shadows of greatness can be a very cold, damp place, and for good reason. 1982’s big splash must have left its older sibling sitting on retail shelves over the past few decades, complete w/ cobwebs piling atop their worn, tired labels. Often overlooked and somewhat maligned, I wondered if 1981 had anything going for it besides the fact that it wasn’t 1980. Is there anything special that’s locked up in those lonely old bottles, or have they already gone quietly into that goodnight? Well, any investigation involving wine is a worthwhile one, and oddly enough, two terrific vinous experiences (complete w/ 1981 birthdates) emerged from this study. Unfortunately, for Bordeaux’s sake, they were not claret.

Now don’t get me wrong, the wines involved in this horizontal were not awful, but the term ‘claret drinker’s vintage’ strikes me as overly apologetic w/ regards to 1981. If claret means hollow, short and attenuated, perhaps the phrase would be apropos….but I suppose semantic discrepancies abound in our beloved hobby. It’s not like the estates were run of the mill either, as the line-up included Vieux Chateau Certan, La Conseillante, Haut Bailly, Pichon Lalande, La Mission Haut Brion & Leoville Las Cases. Out of the group, I found La Mission to be the most affable, albeit in a foursquare fashion. The Lalande was a bit weedy, yet still packed a punch, and while there was a sense of delicacy to the Leoville & La Conseillante, I imagine their flavors faded quicker than ‘81 vintage hype after the ‘82s arrived on the scene. Pleasant without profundity was perhaps the conceit of the vintage, at least from this small sample size. While it is tempting to purchase the more regal Chateau from off years at lower prices, this group of ‘81s did little to validate that logic. I didn’t score any wine higher than 88 points (most were in the low to mid 80’s).

Wait a minute…didn’t I have a bit more rosy theme for this vintage? See I got all caught up in Red Bordeaux that I completely forgot some of the Graves estates make white wine too! Well, our horizontal tasting saved the best for….first. A blind white wine of unknown origin (and pristine provenance I might add) was graciously donated by Ben Goldberg to kick things off. Well folks, it was just about all downhill after this one. The white was shimmering (in what I thought was its youth), with fascinating detail to its nose of pine, powdered stone, candle wax and marzipan scents. The attack was surprisingly sweet, w/ a honeyed, quince-like flavor buttressed by a round, almost grassy palate that flowed brilliantly to the finish. The complexities of the ’81 Laville Haut Brion Blanc were as intricate and precise as they come, and she was a simply outstanding bottle (91 points, in most anyone’s book).

The ‘other red,’ which we were told was an ’81 as well, couldn’t have been further from the Left Bank of Bordeaux if it tried (at least from a qualitative standpoint). The poise and depth were immediately evident, as the bouquet of rosemary, damp underbrush, cedar, sweet cherry and hints of high quality balsamic left a big impression on all of our olfactory senses. The sense of vivacity and intensity in the wine’s mouth-feel was tremendous for an ’81, w/ a sappy, almost succulent texture filling out the body from cheek to cheek. As it aired, it seemed to go from strength to strength, picking up steam on the juicy, persistent finish. This was easily the liveliest ’81 I’ve tasted to date, and to my palate, only Beaucastel came close in quality to this performance by Vega Sicila’s Unico (94 points).

What a coup! How does a Spanish stalwart come out on top in a horizontal of ’81 Bordeaux? Always beware of the ringers I say, but this got me to thinking, did the sun only shine in Spain in 1981? Was Laville lucky in that they picked before harvest rains? Are there any Chateaus that truly stood out in this vintage? I’d heard a rumor that Penfold’s Grange was a contender in 1981, but I personally haven’t had the pleasure of making its acquaintance….are there any wines out there from a forgotten vintage that come to mind as truly being exemplary?

As a prologue, I felt privileged to have tasted the Unico….I mean a lot of geeks know the great vintages, but how cool is ’81 pillow talk?!

The '07 Cotes du Rhone train rolls on

The quality price ratio for Cotes du Rhone in 2007 is pretty much unbeatable...here's yet another example of how pound for pound, this vintage is an undisputed champion:

Grand Veneur Reserve CDR '07
Another delicious '07, w/ a deep ruby hue, revealing a nose of hoison sauce, pepper, seaweed and pure black cherry liqueur. The wine splashes an equal dose of spice and tang in the palate, w/ a beefy spine pumping some serious dark fruit through to the finish. High octane, yet decidedly authentic, 89 points.

A producer that should not be ignored by Old World palates

The buzz on Achaval Ferrer, from a critical standpoint, is seemingly approaching a zenith, yet I believe their wines still get lost in the shuffle w/ regard to many fans of old world wines. The fast appeal of Argentina’s flagship grape seems closely linked to value, their immediacy of primary fruit and easy going supple textures. Flying winemakers like Paul Hobbs & Michel Rolland (not to mention a project involving Cheval Blanc) have flocked to South America, making wines of exquisite polish and explosive flavors. While their success certainly speaks for itself, I don’t believe that is all Argentina has to say. Achaval Ferrer is a case and point, and is a producer that I believe Old World fans should not ignore.

The reasons I think Achaval Ferrer lines up nicely w/ Old World palates (unlike several popular Malbecs from Argentina):

· Low alcohol, low pH (high altitude vineyard sites, early harvesting)
· Serious, legitimate minerality
· Potential longevity (how many producers actually recommend decanting their wines on the back of the label?!)
· Familiar thread (old, pre-phylloxera vines, poor soils)
· Lazy wine-making (judicious use of oak, minimal S02, wild fermentations)
· Singular wines (they don’t taste like Cabernet or Merlot…they don’t seem as if they could have been made from ‘just about anywhere’)

That being said, their profiles are unique and of course, aren’t for everyone. While the single vineyard designates are pricey, the entry level Malbec blend is a qualitative equivalent to a good vintage of Vieille Cure or Chateau D’Aiguilhe (for less money). If you haven’t tried a Malbec from Achaval Ferrer or if you have any preconceived notions w/ regards to what Argentina is all about, give a recent vintage of their entry level Malbec a shot. It’s a low risk, high reward proposition….and as the team at Achaval Ferrer recommends, please decant.

Achaval Ferrer Malbec, Mendoza '08
The most fresh Malbecs almost always come from Achaval Ferrer, w/ their '08's 'typicity' blend (the SVDs are more about showing off each particular parcel) revealing about as dark a robe as any, yet clocking in under 14% alcohol. The fresh and lively perfume is filled with lilac, basil, cedar, wild blueberry, cassis and roast beef notes. In the palate, the wine has mouth-watering acidity and laser-like focus, gliding w/ ease to an elegant mineral-bath of a finish (the likes of which I seldom notice in any red wine of this intensity). In my opinion, the only other appellation that can produce wines with this remarkable level of clarity and finesse at this price point is Bordeaux, 91 points.

Hard at work in the Podcast Studio...

I wanted to pass along a brief update on the podcast project to give you all a status report. Each show is just under 30 minutes in length (which we feel are jam-packed and ADHD friendly), though the inaugural cast is more of a 15 minute teaser. Roughly 6 episodes have already been recorded (including an in-depth interview w/ Santiago Achaval of Achaval Ferrer, arguably the top producer of Malbec in Mendoza) & Ben and I are fine tuning a few odds and ends. Between tweaking the sound quality and editing out a few ummms and uhhhs (I had no idea I used the phrase 'at the end of the day...' in nearly every sentence- gotta love those verbal ticks!), we are doing what we can to make this product as top shelf and entertaining as possible. I'm very excited to report that the content thus far is as irreverent as it is informative!

The launch of our weekly series is on the horizon so continue be on the lookout for it!

Two terrific '00 CDPs in their prime

Janasse Chaupin '00

To me, this represents all that is intoxicating about the perfume of old vine Grenache. The sensual bouquet of allspice, cinammon stick, cassis, cherry liqueur and the black licorice essence rocket from the glass. The mouthfeel is pure and lush, expanding over the palate w/ fabulous breadth and depth. The intensity of the '00 Chaupin keeps its flavors alive, which never seeming heavy or dull. I've had this wine numerous times and this is by far the most impressive showing yet; just an outstanding vintage for Janasse, 95 points.

Clos du Mont Olivet Cuvee du Papet, 2000

This wine is cruising its way into maturity, displaying a savory nose of grilled rosemary, cedar, hearty plum, salted pork and pepper. The palate shows good concentration, w/ a chewy overlay sweet raspberry fruit pushing the mineral core through the fresh, juicy finish, 93 points.

The best rose I've had all year

At half the price of Tempier and a stylistic counterpoint to Mordoree, this exemplifies why my knees buckle from great Pinot Noir rose.

Lucien Crochet Pinot Noir Rose '08

It seems like there is something about Sancerre’s pedigree that bodes exceptionally well for Rose (or it could be simply due to the Pinot Noir influence) and Lucien Crochet’s ’08 is a case and point. The nose is redolent of the strawberry fields I used to traipse through as a kid, w/ flickers of green apple peel, rose petals, watermelon and chalk dust scents filling out the bouquet. The mouth-feel has a crystalline purity to it, akin to the juicy sensation of biting into freshly picked fruit. This is a seamless beauty, w/ uncanny finesse and a nervy mineral core that unfolds itself slowly on the long finish. It may seem crazy for me to say, but this rose seems crafted to age a la Cotat, 92 points.

Exciting News from your Tireless Staff at Unidentified Appellation

Drum roll please....

I'm excited to say that Unidentified Appellation has teamed w/ Ben Sherwin, author of the blog 'what belongs to the day,' to launch a new podcast series. Each episode will be about a half hour in length and we plan to make them available on itunes (and other various channels) very shortly. Ben and I will go back and forth; covering today's controversies in wine, hot topics, current events and, of course, do some serious drinking! We plan on tackling regions large and small through blind-tasting, verticals, horizontals and diagonals. In addition, Ben and I also plan to record a series of interviews w/ winemakers and vintners from all ends of the philosophical spectrum. We both champion diversity and thrive on debate....two things that we believe will make our series one to look out for.

The first 3 casts have already been taped and the editing team is hard at work, readying them for take-off. I will keep you all abreast of podcast updates here at the appellation. Cheers to the new wine horizon...

The Barrage of '07 CDP Continues

Domaine St. Prefert, Auguste Favier ‘07

This took quite a bit more time and coaxing to come out of its shell than the entry level cuvee, but patience paid off, bringing out that alluring floral note I always seem to get from this cuvee (the 15% old vine Cinsault?). The entry is sleek, weaving in mouth-filling layers of violet, creamy raspberry and fruitcake into the fray. The texture couldn’t be any suppler if it tried, complete w/ the length and purity of fruit that calls to mind Usseglio’s Mon Aieul cuvee. This is a few years away from prime drinking, but I imagine it has a couple of decades of life ahead of it, 95 points.

Let the onslaught of 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape begin

Isabel Ferrando's '07s, while potentially fantastic in tank, have more than eclipsed what I thought they'd be in bottle. The base cuvee was like a ticking time bomb...rocketing old vine Grenache shrapnel through the air once the cork was popped.

Domaine St. Prefert CDP 07

A brief smell leaves me w/ one thought...WOW. Outrageously intense and exuberant, a la Clos St. Jean, the nose of plum cake, spice box, blackberry liqueur and cocoa dusted herbs is to die for. Expands rapidly over the palate, dousing the mouth from cheek to cheek w/ exhilarating, full-throttle flavors that speak of the vintage in volumes. In spite of its layers of flavor, you can still get a sense of how firm the backbone is. This is a surreal experience for an entry level wine, 94 points.

Cuvee Auguste Favier is next on tap...

In case you're wondering...

I haven't taken a nose dive off the reservation, nor have I traded in the Chateauneuf bandwagon for the next big thing. I suppose there is a bit of Chenin fever in the spring air (which I'm going to breath out briefly on this next post), but never fear, CDP will soon be here. I picked up a couple bottles of top flight, early release '07s (that I've tasted in barrel previously) and will post on them a bit later this week. Until then...Vouvray is in the house:

Foreau Vouvray Sec, ‘05

This is a lightning rod of an ’05 Vouvray, w/ an effusive nose; complete with almond, fresh ginger, quince, chive and lemon peel notes. The flavors whirlwind their way through the palate, uncoiling over a flinty, chalk dusted spine. The finish keeps cackling away, firing away mineral notes left and right. In spite of its youth, this ’05 is already fantastic, delivering all the nervy, feather-weight goods I look for in dry Chenin, 92 points.

A contrast in style from two great winemakers

It doesn’t get much better for Chenin Blanc than Huet or Foreau, and juxtaposing a sec and demi-sec from these two masters of their craft is quite a jolt to the system to the Chenin uninitiated. The beauty of it all is that the price of admission for top Loire is hardly a luxury-based proposition. While the real virtues of Chenin lie in its longevity (Huet would probably bar me from buying his wines if he knew I killed any of his babies before the age of ten), I’m known to experiment w/ wines in their infancy from time to time ;)

A technical adjustment in labeling from Champagne to Chenin is that Sec and Demi-Sec indicate dry to off dry in the Loire as opposed to very sweet to semi-sweet for bubbles (the A.O.C. doesn’t exactly standardize for simplicity). The ’04 Foreau Vouvray Sec is a bone dry, bracing expression of Loire Chenin Blanc. The nose had a tinge of spring flowers and crushed almonds. The entry is electric, enveloping the mouth in a sandstone-like grip, drenched in minerality and spiced green fruits. The finish reminds me of a biting, Sauvignon Blanc-like flavor, cackling away on a herb-inflicted, citric note.

The ’02 Huet Demi-Sec Let Mont visually is a darker, more golden colored wine, with a frank sense of richness that jets through the wine's aromas. The scents of marmalade, marzipan and honeysuckle turn creamy and driven in the palate. The flavors are fascinating; while thick and intense, there's a spicy, pleasant bitterness that comes through in the form of persimmon and quince fruit, shading this demi-sec w/ a real edge. While texturally this is a stark contrast to Foreau’s sec, it shares the imbedded chalky spine and spicy, floral characteristics that always seem to come through in good Vouvray.

The Huet calls for richer fare (cream sauce-based dishes come to mind) and will really benefit from extended cellaring, while the Foreau is drinkable now, yet has the skeleton to last close to another decade. Each are excellent, yet distinct glimpses into the complexities of fine Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. If you’ve never tasted one, there's no better place to start than from one of these stalwarts of the Vouvray appellation. Fine wine doesn’t get much more recession proof than this.

Foreau Vouvray Sec '04 89 points

Huet Demi-Sec Le Mont '02 92+ points

In light of the Spectator's Insider, TN: Carlisle Papa's Block Syrah '07

Carlisle Papa's Block Syrah, '07
An exceptionally dark, almost brooding young Syrah that has the nose of an infant '03 Bordeaux. A blast of lead pencil, sweet oak, pepper, gravel, blackberry liqueur and molten chocolate cake notes bubble their way from the stem. A huge, mouth-filling presence tickles through the palate; with suave, ultra-silky tannins coating the back end w/ a long, lingering finish. Authoritatively flavored and lavishly oaked, this is bound to round into spectacular form w/ some short term cellaring, 94+ points.