Rock-Star Chablis on the Cheap
Christian Moreau Chablis ‘08
This is an outstanding wine for the money, no doubt about it. The richness of ’08 creeps into the body of this young village wine at a young village price (high teens or so)- as notes of crushed stone, lemon peel, ginger & poached pear pepper the profile. The entry is smooth and expansive, packing in atypical power & persistence for its category & relative weight class. I’m tempted to refer to the finish as heady, but haven’t the cojones to go for the jugular. No fear for the old Chablisean guard, the electric output is still churning at high acid wattage, in spite of the current of fruit, 90 points.
This is an outstanding wine for the money, no doubt about it. The richness of ’08 creeps into the body of this young village wine at a young village price (high teens or so)- as notes of crushed stone, lemon peel, ginger & poached pear pepper the profile. The entry is smooth and expansive, packing in atypical power & persistence for its category & relative weight class. I’m tempted to refer to the finish as heady, but haven’t the cojones to go for the jugular. No fear for the old Chablisean guard, the electric output is still churning at high acid wattage, in spite of the current of fruit, 90 points.
posted by Brad Coelho at 7/26/2010
1 Comments:
In terms of density and raw flesh, the Vaillon is a cut above; yet the Clos, per vineyard protocol, is a shimmering wine.
Moreau Les Clos ‘08
Deep straw, flirting w/ gold at the rim. A smoky, youthfully exuberant nose of subtle toast, straw, sea salt, candied lime, lemon zest & honey suckle notes; yet the taste buds are where the flavors beam. The entry snaps w/ opulence, steering w/ uncanny mineral drive. Precise & layered, a stone fruit sheath that runs circles through the palate- bouldering, explosive. Predictably the finest of the crus, uncompromisingly intense & stylish all at once- the deal of deals for Les Clos? 95 points.
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