A Chardonnay, errr...Burgundy producer I'd been dying to try....
Goodness knows why I’ve been on a bit of a Chardonnay kick, but this wine actually is a bit more about person and place than that of grape & gadgetry. Pouilly Fuisse has been somewhat of a go-to, uncomplicated appellation for decent, refreshing Chardonnay, yet I’d never found much to be excited about from the region that warranted serious exploration. Well, I admit it, the Rosenthal novel catalyzed quite a bit of Pouilly Fume intrigue for me, mostly due to the tales of the venerable Madame Ferret. Neal’s passion and admiration for the worn, yet wholesome Ferret is palpable during the chapter titled ‘character,’ and it made me desire to not only spend some time w/ the lady, but sip some of her wine.
Alas, things do change. Not only has Madame Ferret expired, but Jadot has purchased the Domaine, for better or for worse. A trip to Rosenthal’s retail shop in the Upper East Side provided the final slap in the face that I needed to propel me into action. Life’s too short to not embrace this visceral experience which transports us not only to a particular place, but makes us long for those that once graced its streets, inspiring us to investigate and discover.
I hope you enjoy my brief encounter w/ Domaine Ferret & also hope this arouses a similar form of encouragement within you, to taste & experience something a bit further along the bend in the countless curves of our beloved wine road.
Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fuisse, 2004 ‘Les Moulins’
A brilliant, light golden color w/ shades of green foreshadow a ripe, exceptionally clean nose of honeysuckle, crisp golden delicious apples, hot stones, baked peanuts and shades of white flowers. The palate is fantastically precise, allowing a pure beam of green fruits to glide over a mineral bed w/ ease and grace, showcasing unadorned ripeness & clarity. While this wine sees virtually no wood, there is ample structure, harmony and track record suggest that this white will impress for over a decade to come, 90 points.