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Friday, January 30, 2009

Terrific Chablis

Once it says 'Les Clos' on the bottle, there are very few deals left...and not to say that Fevre's are a 'steal,' but I still find this domaine's Les Clos to be the most consistently outstanding version in its price-range. In terms of its aging potential, it's tough to find a better price-quality ratio in the land of Grand Cru Burgundy.

Fevre Les Clos, '06
As I swirl this light gold colored Grand Cru I notice that it is shedding some substantial legs, perhaps the most pronounced I've ever seen in a Chablis. The shy aromatics slowly blossom in the glass, unwinding subtle layers of pineapple, crushed lilac, sea-shell, pear skin, powdered stone and lime candy scents. The entry is riveting, incrementally building on the powerful, multi-dimensional mid-palate that turns on the after-burners on the finish, leaving a cloud of chalk dust and mint to fizzle endlessly. In spite of its force and intensity, this performance remains firmly rooted in its Chablis pedigree, showing a compelling contrast of class and flash that I find to be irresistible, 95+ points.


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